Manicotti with Meat Sauce

Growing up, this recipe was like a unicorn.  It only came out a few times a year and required the use of a cast iron pan we NEVER saw until it was manicotti time.  Let me repeat that for you...this recipe requires it own pan!  How cool is that, it's a recipe that requires its own special equipment. Hmm, I'm not sensing the level of awe, wonder, and reverence that one should have when faced with a manicotti recipe of this caliber.  But that's okay, my enthusiasm is enough for all of us.

I can still remember sitting in the kitchen, watching my mother make the crepes.  Not in a creepy way, in an awe filled way.  Crepes have always seemed like they have this really intense creation process.  And it does.  It requires both precision and swiftness.  I'm still working on my technique.  Thankfully manicotti also involves sauce, so all of the not quite great looking crepes are hidden.

When I finally received the coveted family recipe (and MY very own special crepe pan), I was surprised to find out that crepes do not require a lot in the way of ingredients or batter-making effort.  Eggs, water, flour, salt and mix - that is it.  Very anti-climactic.  The creation process, however, is stressful.  You need a spoon that is just the right size to pour just the right amount of batter in the pan.  You need to swoop the pan at just the right time in just the right angle to get all of the batter all over the pan.  You need to leave the crepe for just the right amount of time before flipping. Oh my word, just thinking about it raises my blood pressure.

Or, I really could be exaggerating.  I am exaggerating.  But, you really do need to be quick.  More so because the crepes are meant to be this, which means they set after only a couple of seconds.  You are not trying to brown the crepes, they are not tortillas.  You want something that is firm but soft and pliable.  Does that sound weird when describing a food substance?  Whatever, it's accurate.  And tasty. Don't forget tasty.

The nice things is, once you master the technique and are comfortable making the crepes, you can use that recipe in so many other ways.  Oh how the jars of Nutella and bananas and strawberries dance in my head.  For now, though, it's time to make the manicotti.

Manicotti with Meat Sauce

Ingredients

Crepes:

6 eggs - beaten
1 1/2 c. water
1 1/2 c. flour
1 tsp. salt

Sauce:

1 onion - chopped
2 garlic cloves - minced
1 1/2 pounds Italian sausage - casings removed
28 oz. crushed tomatoes in puree
6 oz. tomato paste
2 Tbsp parsley - chopped
1/2 c. basil leaves - chopped

Cheese filling:

2 lbs. Ricotta cheese
1/2 lb. mozzarella - shredded
4 oz creamy goat cheese
2 eggs
1 Tbsp parsley - chopped
1/4 c. grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 tsp. salt

Directions

I recommend making everything in the same order as I listed the ingredients, i.e., make the crepes, then make the sauce, then make the filling.  You want the crepes to cool down before the assembly begins.

Begin with the crepes and in a large bowl combine the flour and salt.  In another bowl, beat the eggs with the water then add to the dry ingredients.  Beat together then let stand for 5 minutes.

While the mixture stands, preheat your 6 1/2 inch cast iron skillet greased with olive oil.  When ready, pour a scant amount of the crepe mixture into the pan and allow it to cover the entire surface.  Once the mixture is set, flip.

Cook for a few more seconds then move to a plate to cool.  Repeat.  This mixture should make approximately 40 crepes.

While the crepes are cooling, move on to the sauce.  Also, at this point, turn on the oven and set to 350F.

Heat some olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat.  Add the onions and cook until tender, approximately 7 minutes.  Add the garlic and give a couple of stirs.  Add the sausage and cook for about 10 minutes, breaking up the links as they cook.

Once the sausage is no longer pink add the crushed tomatoes, tomato paste, parsley, and basil.  Reduce heat to simmer and cook for another 20 minutes.

Isn't great how everything looks so unappetizing while you are making it?

While the sauce simmer, move on to the filling.  Mix together the ricotta, mozzarella, goat cheese, eggs, parsley, Parmesan, and salt.  I realize making the filling was extra difficult but have no fear, we're almost done.

Making the manicotti

Line up all of your main necessities - 9x13 casserole dish, sauce, cheese, crepes.  Coat the bottom of the casserole dish with a thin layer of sauce.  Take one crepe,

slap a spoonful of cheese filling into the center,

I realize I'm not winning any awards for this photo, but it gets the point across.

flop one side over,

and then the other.

And we have achieved crepehood!

Now you will need to repeat this about 15 more times, placing each one into the casserole dish.

Create alternating layers of sauce and crepes until you are out of crepes.  Be sure to reserve enough sauce to end with a sauce layer.

Bake, covered for 30 minutes. Remove cover and bake for another 15 minutes or so.  It is ready when the sauce is bubbling.

I love this recipe.  It is one of my all time favorite family meals and making the crepes instead of using store bought shells add a nice personal touch to the meal. Pair it with a side salad and you are good to go. 

Roman Cheese Pudding

Okay, I get it.  Nothing about the name "Roman Cheese Pudding" sounds even slightly appetizing.  I promise though, if you give it a chance you will be glad you did.  Think baked lemony cannoli filling and you'd be on the right track.  It is a bit strange to think about and the fact that I had to sieve the ricotta sent me into fits, but this is good stuff.  I shared my finished product with colleagues at work and no one was disappointed.

I made a couple adjustments, one being the direct result of the other, and both being a product of my laziness.  The directions call for using a mold and when I think of mold I think of jello salads I used to eat as a child.  I'm pretty sure that type of mold is what Maria Luisa was getting at.  However, I only have a bundt pan that is about 3 times the size I actually needed.  I could have gone to the store and found myself a mold, but I was not really up for the hunt.  Instead, I used my bundt pan and doubled the recipe so that it wouldn't look dwarfed inside the thing.  Below is the regular recipe, not the doubled version I made.

Roman Cheese Pudding

Budino di Ricotta alla Romana

Ingredients:

1/2 lb. ricotta cheese

1/2 c. sugar

2 egg yolks

3 whole eggs

1/4 tsp. cinnamon

grated peel of 1 small lemon

1/4 tsp. salt

Directions:

Preheat oven to 325F and grease mold.  Sprinkle mold lightly with bread crumbs.  Be careful with your bread crumb selection.  I only had Italian style bread crumbs in the pantry and didn't really think about it when I used them to prep the pan.  Italian style bread crumbs have parsley flakes.  Those parsley flakes will adhere to your pudding.  It doesn't change the flavor but it will make your guests look twice at the edges when they cut a slice.

Using a wire mesh strainer and the back of a spoon or spatula, sieve the ricotta into a bowl.

Still not sure what that really added to the overall recipe but that is what sieved ricotta will look like.

Now, add the sugar and mix well.  Blend in yolks and, one at a time, add the whole eggs.  Beat constantly throughout this part.  I used a stand mixer since I didn't think I would have enough hands to crack, add, and beat all at the same time.  Blend in the remaining ingredients.  Pour mixture into the prepared mold.

Place mold in a pan of water.  You will, essentially, be cooking this pudding in a bain marie - a fancy term for hot water bath.  This creates a more uniform level of heat around the mold and the steam will keep the pudding from drying out.

Bake for approximately 1 hour or until a toothpick comes out dry.  With my doubled version I had to bake it for 1 hour 10 minutes.

There were some obvious removal issues.  For the most part it plopped out nicely, but there were some spots that stuck to the mold.  Now, this could very well be my fault.  Maria Luisa did not provide any instruction regarding removing the pudding from the mold.  Part of me said that if I let it cool in the pan too much it might end up sticking to the sides and never come out.  The other part of me said I needed to wait until it cooled at least a bit so that I was sure it was properly set.  

 

I ended up waiting a whole 5 minutes then turned the mold upside down.  Therefore, the case could be made that had I waited until it cooled, this would not have happened.  But, those could have simply been trouble spots on the mold where there wasn't enough butter and breadcrumbs so it would have stuck regardless of when I tried to remove it.  Maybe next time around I wait until it cools before removing it.  Maybe next time I use a pan that is more appropriately sized.  Honestly, who knows.

What I do know though, is that this pudding tastes pretty great.  It has a nice smooth texture with a light hint of lemon.  The extreme number of eggs makes the dessert rich and creamy.  It's worth trying for your next dinner party.

The Wonder that is Gnudi

Quite some time ago I read a newspaper article on gnudi (nyoo-dee), these cheesy nuggets of amazing.  I didn't try them right away, living in an apartment with very little kitchen space did not inspire much desire to get experimental.  I moved several months ago and was rewarded with an increased amount of prep space.  Then, starting this blog, I began to get crazy again and the gnudi found its way to the top of my "to try" list.

The great thing about this dish is that it is technically easy but looks difficult.  The key to perfect gnudi is ensuring that there is no excess moisture.  Why is moisture an issue... they will explode if they are too soft when you put them into the boiling water.  Since I decided to attempt this recipe on a Sunday, I had plenty of time to putz around.  I let the ricotta sit in a mesh strainer for a couple of hours.  I made sure to pat dry my sautéed greens and I let the gnudi sit in the refrigerator for an hour before I boiled them. 

There were a grand total of three different recipes I found for gnudi on the internet.  The most reproduced recipe called for letting the gnudi sit anywhere from overnight to three days.  That, in my humble opinion, is beyond overboard.  A hour, maybe two, to let the balls firm back up after you have been handling them is all they need.  To be honest though, I will be the last person to judge if you want to try this as an after work throw-together meal.  Seriously, putting together ricotta, parmesan, and an egg takes all of 5 minutes.  And... these are cheese balls of goodness.  Do not torture and deny yourself by having them sit in the fridge for days!

Swiss Chard Gnudi with Diced Tomatoes and Kalamata Olives

Gnudi:

2 c. ricotta - drained
1 c. parmesan cheese - grated
1 egg + 1 yolk
1/2 c. flour + more for coating
1 c. Swiss chard - chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

Sauce:

3 large tomatoes
1/2 c. Kalamata olives - sliced
2 gloves of garlic - minced
Chard stems
1 Tbsp Kalamata olive juice

Directions:

Put the ricotta in a mesh strainer lined with a paper towel and let it sit for 1 to 2 hours.  It may take a bit for the liquid to begin dripping out but it will eventually happen.

 

 

Remove the stems from the chard leaves and set aside to use in the sauce. 

 



Chop the leaves then proceed to steam and then sauté.  This may seem like overkill, but my goal was to ensure softness.  Place the cooked chard onto a plate covered with paper towels and pat dry.

Once the ricotta is dried out, grate the parmesan and place both cheeses into a large mixing bowl.  Give the cheese mixture a taste test to decide just how much, if any, salt you wish to add.  Add the chard, egg, egg yolk, and flour.  Mix thoroughly then add salt and pepper to taste.

At this point, test the ball rolling abilities of the mixture.  Flour your hands, scoop up about 1 tablespoon of the mixture and try rolling a ball between your palms.  If it rolls easily without sticking to your hands it is ready.  If it is still sticky, keep adding more flour, a tablespoon at a time, until you can easily roll it into balls.

Roll them into balls, a few at a time.  Put them into a baking dish filled with flour and coat.

Regardless of if you plan to let the gnudi sit or not, line a baking sheet with wax paper and put the gnudi on there while you roll them all out.  This recipe makes approximately 30 gnudi. 

Now we move on to the sauce... bring a pot of water to a rolling boil.  Take three large tomatoes and lightly cut an X into the bottom (this allows for easy peeling).  Place tomatoes in boiling water then remove after approximately 30 seconds.  Peel off the skin, remove the seeds, dice.  Slice the kalamata olives and add both to a medium sauté pan.  Heat the olives and tomatoes over medium heat.  Add the garlic, chard stems, and juice to the mixture, creating your sauce.

Back to the gnudi... bring a pot of water to a boil.  Take one of the gnudi and do a test run.  If it holds together in the water, you should be good to go.  Boil the gnudi until they float, this should take about 4 minutes.  I suggest boiling them in small batches to prevent them from sticking together. 

Place a serving onto a plate and top with the sauce.

 The gnudi should come out a little firm on the outside and soft on the inside.  They have a great savory flavor with a nice kick from the sauce.  And, as I wrote before, this is a simple recipe that looks difficult. If you are looking to impress people at your next dinner party, this is the way to go.